I am acutely aware of the ability of essential oils to trigger skin sensitivity reactions. I myself had to leave a job as a spa therapist due to prolonged contact with essential oils for massage treatments. So sensitised was my skin that just walking into a room where the oils were kept could make my skin tingle, the residual molecules in the air were enough to set off a reaction. Visits to allergy specialists and dermatologists, together with a change in job, meant my skin healed and can now tolerate natural essential oils in the correct dilution. So when formulating my perfumes, I test on my own skin as a good yard stick for what could possibly irritate other’s skin as well.
This made the decision to include oakmoss in my blends, (one of the most revered perfumery ingredients of both antiquity and modernity), a very personal and measured choice. So, what’s all the fuss about oakmoss?
Let’s start with its history in perfumery. Oakmoss has been found within the tombs of ancient Egypt, yet it is unclear if it was revered for its aromatic qualities, its medicinal or nutritional- as it can serve all of these. Since the 16th century, Europeans have used oakmoss in perfume powder preparations and modern perfumery has idolised oakmoss since the early 1900’s with some of the most classic and enduring perfumes featuring oakmoss.
However, within the last few years, the International Fragrance Association, (which European manufacturers are bound to comply with) have set guidelines for concentrations of potentially sensitising compounds within perfumery. One such casualty has been oakmoss. It has been stated that around 1-3% of the population have skin sensitivity to perfume compounds, and this rate is higher among people with eczema. Oakmoss is one such potential irritant, and those that are sensitive to it need only over 0.001% concentration in perfume to develop skin allergy symptoms.
When formulating the perfume FIRR, oakmoss was symbolically important for me as the botanic gardens which inspired this perfume have a famous colonnade of oak trees within it, and I wanted to include their stoic presence. Once oakmoss was added to the blend, well, there was no going back, I was in love! It added such indescribable depth and elegance that it simply had to remain. And so, in compromise and in transparent responsibility, I have created clear indications of oakmoss’ presence and its potential for irritation in people with sensitive skin.
In a respectful homage to the art and history of perfume, the oakmoss stays.
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